Installation FAQ

Hand-held bidets have been placed in the 'high risk' category for backflow by Australian standards. This is because the possibility exists for somebody to unscrew the head of the bidet and intentionally put the end of the hose into the toilet (perhaps to clear a blockage).

If while they were doing this; a water main down the street burst, or for some other reason the water pressure dropped, this could result in toilet water (with fecal pathogens) being sucked back up the hose - into the public water supply.

For this reason, Australian Standards dictate that plumbers installing hand held bidets must protect the public water supply to these appliances with reduced pressure zone valves.

Don't get confused by the name; the pressure limiting valve we supply with our kits reduces pressure, but does not stop backflow. Our kits do include a non-return check valve in the 1/4 turn tap outlet that does stop backflow, however this valve alone does not ensure compliance with the standards.

Plumbers installing Hand-held bidets are required to comply with the standards. That said; some plumbers will install hand-held bidets without the mandatory RPZD (reduced pressure zone device). They are however taking a risk doing this, because if the owner of the bidet used it incorrectly (as in the example given above), and by so doing caused a dangerous backflow incident to occur, the plumber may be liable.

To fit one toilet with an RPZD will cost in the vicinity of $600, then require a yearly test for ever after (at around $100 a pop), by a backflow endorsed licenced plumber.

FOR THESE REASONS: We supply hand-held bidets in a kit form, that the home owner can easily install themselves. The owner then takes full responsibility for correct use of the appliance. We do suggest that the owner remove the bidet - should they ever move from or sell the residence.

Let me reiterate: It is NOT POSSIBLE for dangerous backflow with a hand-held bidet to occur, unless the washgun (or hose) is placed below the waterline in the toilet bowl itself.

Hope this explains the backflow issue a little clearer for you.

What you suggest is possible, but usually not very practical for the following reasons:

• There must be some way of venting the water first (to allow the hot water to reach the bidet).
• Some way of controlling the temperature absolutely must be provided, or burns become a real possibility with this (most sensitive) part of the body.
• The hot water in the line becomes cold again quite quickly, so this equates to in-efficient use of both water and the energy used to heat the water.

Remember with a shower; you are actually using the hot water for 5 minutes or more, whereas for the same amount of wastage (energy & water); you will be using the bidet for perhaps only 20-30 seconds, and often many more times a day at that.

Certainly some non-electric bidets on the market do provide the ability to hook-up to both cold & hot water lines. The iZen 3000 is one such non-electric bidet seat. However if you don't already have a hot water line near your toilet, the cost of providing this will - in most cases - be prohibitive.

For these reasons we generally recommend either an instantaneous water heater (like the one we sell on our website), or you simply buy an electronic bidet that is already designed to do this same job in the first place. The cost of providing a power outlet in the toilet will usually be much less than providing hot water plumbing, and you can always use an extension lead for connecting the bidet to the nearest power outlet if necessary.

The pressure limiting valve can be mounted in any position, although it does have a correct direction of flow, which is indicated by an arrow on the valve body. The T piece itself cannot be removed as this has been permanently assembled to the valve outlet with Loctite compound, however we can supply this pressure limiting assembly in different configurations if required.

Our Hand-held Bidet kits will fit most Aussie toilets with the water inlet in the bottom of the cistern tank (right or left side doesn't matter).

Some older Caroma valves do not allow the copper pipe to slide into the plastic inlet enough for secure fixing (usually those with porcelain tanks). The best option here is simply to replace the old Caroma valve with a quality 'Fluidmaster' brand replacement float valve (Available Bunnings or any good plumbing store).

The other factor that can sometimes make installation of our pressure limiting tee assembly difficult, is if the plumber has put the wall tap directly under, and too close to this inlet. Ideally the wall tap should be slightly to one side, or at least 200mm under the inlet to allow room for the PL Tee Assembly. However we do have other configuration options that will usually solve this problem.

If due to some unknown factor - it is NOT possible to fit any of our Bidet Kits, just return the complete item (un-used and un-damaged) for a full refund. Please see Our Policies: Refunds - for more details.

Any of the complete kits (with pressure limiting valve) will be suitable. We generally recommend the 'Hoy' brand wash guns over the 'Hang' brand, because of better build quality and durability (2 year warranty). Nevertheless, the Hang brands do represent excellent value while still giving good service life (12 months warranty). 3M stick-on Wall Stations can be purchased additionally for the Hoy kits if required.

Good question - a traditional bidet/bidette would certainly be much more useful with a hand-held bidet attached!

While doing this is certainly possible; you may have trouble getting an adapter for the thread on the mixer outlet (it is a different size to the hose attachment on a hand held bidet).

You may also need to install a pressure limiting valve on both the hot and cold input pipes if your water pressure is over 350kPa (50psi). We do sell these items separately for folks who want to configure their own installation: 'Separate Supply Line Assembly' Model: H-24 *(without the tap & cover plate). We can also supply this valve with 15mm compression nipples both ends for fitting in-line (same price).

One way around this expense is if you ALWAYS use the mixer to turn the water on and off. The 'Hang" brand bidets are ideal here because if you pull the operating lever up, the water flow will stay permanently on. Remember; plumbers will not normally install hand-held bidets to a public water supply in Australia without the mandatory back-flow prevention devices. These are expensive, both to buy initially and to maintain (please see our page on Backflow Prevention).

Unfortunately - yes.

If you are building a new house and the toilets are in close proximity to each other; you may be able to get them all plumbed into the same cold water line. This is efficient because now you will only need 1 pressure limiting valve and 1 reduced pressure zone valve for all 4 toilets. You would need to talk to your plumber to see if this is a viable option.

Getting them all hooked up to a single hot water line as well may be possible, but to meet regulations you would need another RPZ valve and possibly a PL valve on this hot water line. This will add considerably more expense to the installation - more than buying individual Rezi Heater kits. Regardless of what you decide now, I would advise getting a power outlet fitted near every toilet when building a new house (this will at least give you the option for warm water later on if required).

Please read the page Backflow Prevention for an overview of the problems associated with installing hand-held bidets in Australia. Please also be aware that water pressure to hand held bidets MUST be limited to 350kPa (50psi), or warranty will be voided and the appliance will eventually fail.

WARNING: If you do find a plumber to install handheld bidets to your toilets without the mandatory backflow prevention devices, the building will not pass its final inspection.

While it may seem like a good idea to hook up hand held bidets to both hot and cold water; in actual fact there are quite a few problems associated with this.

* You must have a mixer valve within easy reach to be able to adjust the water temperature.

* Plumbers will not normally install hand-held bidets in Australia without the mandatory back-flow prevention devices. These are expensive, both to buy initially and to maintain (please see our page on Backflow Prevention).

* Water will normally need to be vented for some time - before the water flow actually becomes warm. This can potentially waste a lot of water during winter months, and is also in-efficient use of electricity to heat the water (which becomes cold again in the pipes while waiting for the next use).

* To install extra hot water lines after the house has been built, is usually not viable because of cost. We do sell an instantaneous electric water heater to solve these problems: Our Products/Accessories/Rezi Water Heaters.

You normally only have to turn off the water to the individual toilet you are fitting the bidet to.

Please see the installation PDFs on the Installation FAQ page for more details.

Please also be aware that wall mounted pans typically have all plumbing concealed. This will mean that a wall tap must be provided for the bidet, L or R side - doesn't matter. All electronic models will also need a power outlet; preferably within 80cm of the pan, R/H side (facing the pan).

The 'Hoy' hand-held bidet kits have a hanger which attaches by screws to a suitable position on your wall. If your wall is tiled; this will mean drilling 2 holes in the wall tiles (with a masonry bit), inserting the plastic plugs and then attaching the wall mount by the stainless steel screws provided in the kit.

The 'Hang' hand-held bidet kits come standard with a 3M stick-on wall station, eliminating the need to drill any holes. These are very reliable and are advertised as being able to support weight up to 3kg (as long as the installation instructions are followed correctly).

Aside from the easy convenience; the stick-on wall stations are obviously well suited to any rental property (which must be returned to original condition when vacating),.

This stick-on wall station is also able to be purchased separately, and as an optional extra with some of the Hoy kits if required.

Applying thread tape correctly to plumbing fittings does require a little bit of technique. We actually use Teflon gas tape, because it is thicker and requires less time to apply. You can however seal just as effectively with normal thread tape, but it will require more turns.

• Firstly; the threaded fitting you intend to apply the tape to must be completely dry - otherwise the tape will keep slipping off.

• The thread tape must be stretched slightly as it is applied to the thread on the tee fitting (clockwise direction only) so it conforms to the thread shape.

• Start by winding on about 6 turns (stretch the tape to break it off when finished). Next; screw the tap on, and off again. The tap at this stage should be fairly loose to screw on and off. (This action will press the thread tape already applied - down further into the threads)

• Now wind on another six turns, and then try screwing the tap on again. If the tap still screws on too easily, you will need to apply another couple of turns of tape. The trick here is to apply no more than 4 turns at a time until the tap is firm to screw on (just a little bit tighter than you can easily screw on by hand).

• When the tap is a firm screw on fit; carefully wind it on no more than 3 complete turns - until you reach the desired position. DO NOT screw it counter-clockwise now (at all), or it may leak.

You will note that key to using thread tape correctly; is to apply just the right thickness (in stages) to achieve a firm, water-tight seal. Too much thread tape simply means it will get pushed off the thread - when screwing the tap on.

If you muck this up, its best to remove ALL the thread tape and start again; carefully counting how many turns of tape you apply each time.

The problem you describe is caused by high water pressure at your premises. This problem is addressed correctly when you buy one of our complete kits (with a pressure limiting valve).

We understand that many people today do not like to read instructions - - -

On the page where you purchased this product: Replacement Wash Guns

Please note that water supply pressure to all hand held bidets MUST be limited to under 350kPa (50psi) or warranty will be voided. Higher than recommended water pressure will result in premature failure of the wash gun itself, the supply hose, or both (depending on the model).

Especially Note: simply restricting water flow with a tap will not reduce water pressure! Most places in Australia have water pressure typically between about 500 – 600kPa. Where water pressure is over the recommended limit, a pressure limiting valve will be essential.

You could certainly be forgiven - for thinking your water pressure would not be too high on the 38th floor.

However this is a little trickier than most people realise. In order to reach the top of a 40 storey building (or a high hill) relay pumps must be used. If the water were only pumped from the bottom storey, the guys at the ground level would have 1400kPa (or more) so the people at the top could get their 500kPa. You lose 14.696psi/98.567kPa (1 atmosphere) for every 33 feet (10 metres) in height.

As it is; relay pumps keep water pressure within required parameters for the entire building (but of course - still too high for hand-held bidets).

• Firstly, our hand-held bidet kits will not affect the pressure in the whole house - they only limit the pressure of each individual toilet outlet.

• If these items are to be installed BEFORE your final building inspection - you do need to read the page on our website: Backflow Prevention

• Your builder will also need to be aware of the rulings re: installation of hand-held bidets to a domestic water supply in Australia : Extract - Australian & New Zealand Standards (AS/NZS 3500.1:2003, Section 4.3)

In a nutshell:

Because the possibility exists for someone to unscrew the head of the hand-held bidet and then put the hose down the toilet (perhaps to clear a blockage), plumbers are required to protect the public water supply in Australia with something called a 'Reduced Pressure Zone Device'.

These are economical to install if all the toilets are on the same supply line; but where an RPZD and a pressure limiting valve must be installed for each individual toilet, the cost can be prohibitive.

Although some of the components in our kits are Australian Standards Watermark approved; we have not applied for watermark approval for the imported components in our kits – nor do we intend doing so in the near future (unless the whole Watermark Approval process becomes much more streamlined & affordable).

We understand this may present some problems to builders wishing to install our products into their client's project, but licensed plumbers should beware:

Some of our competitors are displaying their products with a Watermark Logo and Licence No. displayed on the packaging. However according to the regulatory authourity ABCD, the relevant product standard and the license number are required to be marked on the product itself.

Also, a simple Google search for any Watermark licence number (four letters & five numbers such as: WMKA00076), will turn up all the products that HAVE actually been approved for use under that particular Watermark licence No.

Don't be duped; if the product in question is not listed under the Watermark licence No., the product HAS NOT been Watermark tested/certified, and has not been granted a 'WaterMark Certificate of Conformity'. In time, all certified products will also be listed on the newly established WaterMark Product Database.